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Saturday, December 25, 2010

Day 12: Istanbul to Gallipoli to Cannakale

Day 12:  Istanbul – Gallipoli – Cannakale

As promised, we were picked up at 6.30 am.  Four other Aussies were also picked up before we left Istanbul and headed for Gallipoli.  At Ercebat, the town closest to the Gallipoli Peninsula, we were ushered, first into a little coffee shop and then to a restaurant where they served us a very nice meal.
Before getting back into the minibus for the tour of Gallipoli, we spent about 20 minutes at an open air museum that was made with the help of the Turkish government in about 2006.   The whole town was cleaned up as part of the project and before/after photos are proudly displayed.  There is a massive statue honouring all players in WW1 – the soldiers from each side, a  weeping mother and others.  Then there is a huge model of the peninsular, with the various locations marked on it.   It has been very well done. In another area is a model of the trenches with Turkish soldiers in it.   The last feature of the open air display is a line of busts of prominent militiary personnel from the Turkish side.

From Ercebat, our guide, who introduced himself as ‘’Bulant – but you can call me Bill”, had us captivated the whole afternoon with his very extensive knowledge of the Gallipoli campaign.    We started at “Brighton Beach” , the beach the ANZACs were meant to land at.  Here Bill used a map to tell in great detail,  the background to the attack, from both the Turkish side and the Allies’ side.  He went on to describe the various battles, which troops were involved and what territory was gained in each.  By the time he had finished this first half hour or so, I already felt that I knew so much  more about the campaign.

We spent the rest of the afternoon in and out of the bus, going to Anzac Cove,  the site of current ANZAC Day ceremonies, Lone Pine, The Nek, some of the Aussie trenches, the main Turkish cemetery and finally, Chanuk Bair.  This is the highest point on the peninsular and the point that the Allies were ordered to capture.  Bill told us that the New Zealand troops did capture it, but only for two nights.  The Turkish forces then recaptured it and drove the Allies back.  Apart from those two nights, the ANZACs never claimed any more than 2km inland from Anzac Cove. 



Bill told us also of the Turkish commemoration of March 18th, when they gained victory over the British by sinking six British war ships.  This is a huge day for the Turks and they hold ceremonies on that date, just as we do on April 25th.  He also pointed out that Lone Pine is the important place of commemoration for Australians but Chanuk Bair has that importance for New Zealanders.
All in all, we were most impressed with Bill’s contribution to the day.  Roger, Robyn and Damien all enjoyed their first look at Gallipoli and I felt I gained so much from having a second day there.
Bill saw us onto the ferry to cross to Cannakale.  We found our hotel very close by.   It was the Anzac Hotel and Lonely Planet had given it a very good write up, so were were very pleased that our tour company had booked us there.  We are still not sure that the Lonely Planet reviewer hadn’t had his/her palm greased in giving this review – we found it an hotel which had rather a bit too much ‘’character’’.  However, it was a bed with clean sheets and a shower for the morning, so it was fine for one night.

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